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Iran - Turkey


View Backpacking in Iran 2011 in a larger map

Monday, November 29, 2010

Border Crossing from Turkey to Iran

Okay, there are very little information about crossing from iran to turkey so hopefully this information is useful the other way round.

Source: http://www.thelongestwayhome.com/resources/overland/turkey%20to%20iran%20overland.html

Getting to the Iranian Border in Turkey

Due to picking up my indian visa I left from Ankara. It's a 55 lira(currency convertor on your left) bus ticket and 19 hour ride to the border town of Dogubayazit (Turkey). I met a Korean girl who opted to cross from Van, but it made little sense to me as Dogubayazit was right on the border. Plus, it had Mount Ararat (an attraction we must see?) where Noah's ark is meant to have landed.

You need to beware of the time of year you take this journey though. The bus goes up to 7,800 feet and around Atiku we got stuck in a snow blizzard. There have been reports of a few crashes in the winters here.

The border town for overland travelers

Once in Dogubayazit (border town in turkey we will pass by?), from the bus terminal you can walk to the center of the town easily. From recollection you go left at the main gates. I stayed at the Hotel Tarhan for about 18 lira for a double en suite. No bargaining as few people were there at this time of year.

Due to heavy cloud it was not possible to see much of Mount Ararat, but there are plenty of tour touts around.

A meal of lamb kebab, rice and soft drink is about 3 lira. Beware that there are a lot of Kurdish speakers around here. Learn a few greetings, and all doors will be opened to you!

Getting a mini bus to the Iranian border

Finding the mini bus stop to the border is a pain. It was nowhere near where the mid east LP guide book writes. Nor is it near any gas/petrol station.

Basically just ask for a domud (small bus) to Iran, saying "Gurbulak" is a waste of time unless your phonetics in Turkish/Kurdish are stunning. The bus stop is about ten minutes walk from the Hotel Tarhan and is a small little empty office. You'll find little signage.

The mini bus journey:

There's no need to book in advance, it leaves at about 7am, so naturally I showed up at 6.15 and we left at 8. It's a case of wait for the bus to fill. You'll be told where to sit, and it's probably best to wait until you are about to leave as your bag is attached to the roof and there's lots going on. There's street food available at that time, just ask in the office.

To be honest I can't for sure remember the cost of the ticket. But it was around 8 lira. It took about 45mins. There was quite a lot of traffic traveling on the border road itself. As we slowed, I opted to get out and walk the rest of the way.

There's a fair bit of Turkish military around the place. Bunkers, tanks, Jeeps and army types, so you might want to keep the camera out of sight.

Crossing the Turkey border into Iran

The first check point border officer just has a look at your passport. Then you walk up a two lane wide new road that's on an incline. At the top are the gates out of Turkey. Here the odd bashful money changer will approach. I changed a little, just to be sure. Your passport is checked for an Iranian visa, and then you are stamped out.

Crossing into Iran at the border crossing

You then walk up another small hill towards the Iranian border under a huge mural of the Ayatollah. And, a sign saying “WEL-COME TO IRAN.” A few soldiers will inspect your passport. Finally at a huge iron gate you wait for it to be opened. I had the pleasure of listening to a soldier shout at a few locals for trying to open it. Then they welcomed me in with a big smile.

At a little glass cabinet to the left you get stamped in with another big smile, maybe. Clean toilets are to the right, but you need to leave your bag outside. Just ask a guard to mind them for you.

Once you cross the Iranian border

Outside you're in a different world. And, 1.5 hours ahead. There were buses heading to Bazargan, but I couldn't make sense of them and they would not let me on anyway.

There were also taxi's, but they were charging crazy fees so I walked. There are more money changers out here too. The walk to the border town was about 30mins. It's full of trucks etc. A few kids came up and tried to ask for money, nothing serious.

You pass through a customs gate, and then finally out through the hectic main gates. You'll be surrounded by touts, taxi men and everything in between. Read my Iran section to be ready on the two different terms they use for Iranian currency.

The nearest town in Iran from the border ()

A shared taxi of 4 cost 6,000 toman each. I took a local taxi (the little beat up gray / yellow ones) to Maku for 1,500 rial. Then a bus to Tabriz for 15,000 Rial it was a 5 hour trip. It's best not to arrive on a Thursday night if you hope to meet up with the infamous tourist information brothers Nasser and Mansour, which I seriously advise you do. They are a great source of information and advise.

They can also offer help to overland travelers with bikes and cars. You need to get Iranian plates, plus fuel cards.

I will write up a travelogue about my meeting with a Syrian couple at the border and how they screwed me over by asking me to wait with them for a shared taxi. I waited 2 + hours, and then they snuck off in another car. So be warned about teaming up with others to travel further on.

I ended up staying at Mashad Hotel in Tabriz at 57,300 a night for a shared bathroom.

Quick Facts on crossing from Turkey into Iran Overland

Ankara to Dogubayazit via bus: 19 hours. Cost about 55 lira

Hotel Tahan: 18 Lira

Minibus from Dogubayazit to Border: 8 Lira

Shared Taxi from Bazargan to Tabriz: 60,000 lira. Private taxi: $40USD.

Taxi to Maku: 1,500 lira

Bus to Tabriz: 15,000 lira

No border charges. Money changers on both sides

Remember the the time change

Maku is not worth staying the night in

Hotel Mashad is run down, bigger than it seems and cost me 57, 300 a night.

Make a huge effort to see the two brothers at the Iranian tourist office in Tabriz, a great introduction to Iran at no charge!

Sunday, November 28, 2010

Iran and Turkey Map Simplified




Turkey to Iran (18 Days)

Source: http://www.goway.com/adventure/small-group-adventures/small-groups-trip-details.php?trip_id=143

Day 1 Istanbul

Get off the beaten track and visit the city's historical and cultural sites, ending the day among the colours and aromas of the spice markets in the bazaar quarter.

Day 2 Safranbolu

Leave the city bound for a village hidden in the mountains of the Anatolia region. Explore narrow cobbled laneways flanked by heritage-listed houses. Indulge in the local specialty - yaprak helvast - layers of helva interspersed with walnuts.

Days 3-4 Amasya

Explore the picturesque views of half-timbered Ottoman houses overlooking a rocky ravine. Set in a confined valley, Amasya is easy to explore by foot. Why not check out the Pontic tombs or wander the backstreets and end the day at a local teahouse or hamam.

Days 5-6 Sivas

Enter a land suspended in time, boasting beautiful Seljuk buildings decorated with geometric carvings and unique tile work. Perhaps take a day trip to the mountain village of Divrigi with its World Heritage-listed mosque-medrese complex.

Day 7 Erzurum

Travel through wild and beautiful landscapes to reach a town torn between two ways of life. Get an insight into the complexities of eastern Turkish society by exploring the tree-lined boulevards - home to both staunch conservatives and outspoken university students.

Day 8 Kars

Take the opportunity to visit the ruins of Ani, once the impressive Armenian capital. Back in Kars, stroll through the town and discover rich ethnic influences in the architecture and cuisine.

Day 9 Dogubayazit

With free time, perhaps explore the Ishak Pasa Palace with its enchanting mix of Ottoman, Persian and Seljuk architecture. Below Mt Ararat, look out for the fossilised remains of Noah's Ark.

Days 10-13 Tabriz

Cross the border to Iran. See the impressive Poet's Mausoleum or journey to the ancient village of Kandovan and wander among the dwellings carved into the mountains. Alternatively, travel to Jolfa to discover the unique culture of Armenian Christians.

Day 14 Sara'eyn

Perhaps stop off at the Sheikh Safi od-Din Mausoleum in Ardabil. In Sara'eyn, soothe travel aches in hot springs reputed to contain a cure-all mineral mixture.

Days 15-16 Masuleh

Enjoy a scenic drive past the Bandar-e Anzali lagoon to reach a car-free city boasting UNESCO Heritage-listed architecture - here, due to the steep location, rooftops and the village streets above them are one and the same.

Days 17-18 Tehran

Ramble through the Tehran Bazaar, see the impressive display of faith at Imam Khomeini Mosque during prayer time or stop by the National Jewels Museum to see the world's largest uncut diamond. View the excesses of the Qajar rulers on show at the Golestan Palace, check out the political murals surrounding the former US Embassy and perhaps end the adventure with a relaxing puff of a qalyan.

Fusionoize Iran Turkey

Duration: 4th June - 25th June 2011 (Tentative)
Costs: 4500SGD~
People going: Mr Khoo, Jiw wei, Seth and Zhan Liang (boon kiat, joseph, justin and thomas?)